DoSe By VH - A Glossary

DoSe By VH - A Glossary

We understand that navigating the jargon and ingredients within skincare can be difficult so we've put together an alphabetised list of all the commonly used words and skincare ingredients found in DoSe. If you can't find the word you are looking for or still want some more information to help you understand the range, please contact our customer care team at and we'd be happy to help. 


Argan Oil - A natural antioxidant rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Derived from the kernels of the argan tree (Argania spinosa), Argan oil is rich in essential fatty acids, including oleic acid and linoleic acid. It also contains vitamin E, which contributes to its antioxidant properties.  Non-greasy and suitable for all skin types, you can even use it to hydrate and sooth dry hair and scalps. 

Azelaic Acid - A solution for acne-prone, blackhead-prone and rosacea prone skin types. It is a powerful antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, skin-friendly acid suitable for all skin types, helping to calm inflammatory skin concerns and helping to improve an uneven skin tone. It helps inhibit bacterial growth, balances oil secretion and prevent inflammation.   

Ascorbic Acid - Topical Vitamin C (see Vitamin C)   

Alpha Arbutin - Alpha-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-D-lucopyranoside) is a synthetic and functional active ingredient for skin lightening, promoting skin lightening and an even skin tone for all skin types. Helps to minimize the appearance of liver spots and target uneven skin tone as well as post-blemish marks. Derived from the leaves of the bearberry plant, alpha arbutin inhibits the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme which controls the amount of pigment produced by the pigment cells.  

AHA - Alpha Hydroxy Acids also known as AHAs are a type of organic acid that people use to exfoliate the skin. If used regularly, over time AHAs may help to improve skin texture, fade dark spots and reduce visible signs of ageing. AHAs can increase sensitivity to UV damage so you should wear sunscreen every day if using them. Those with sensitive skin should apply with caution only using one to two times weekly and increasing frequency as your skin becomes more tolerant to it.  

Bakuchiol - A natural alternative to retinol to help protect the skin against signs of ageing and blemishes whilst stimulating the production of collagen.  Clinically proven to mitigate multiple signs of acne, control sebum production and maintain the integrity of skin lipids.   It is also known as Bakuchi Oil or Babchi derived from the seeds of the Psoralea Corylifolia plant. It has a long history of use in Ayurvedic medicine and has been used to treat numerous skin concerns and is suitable for people with skin prone to eczema and and skin prone to psoriasis. 

Betaine - Betaine is a natural osmoprotectant, an osmolyte that protects cells from environmental stress like oxidative (UV radiations) and thermal stress (dehydration) by controlling cell water balance. Betaine also reinforces the epidermal barrier, bringing moisturisation and protection.  

BHA - BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) is an oil-loving acid. BHA's are best for skin prone to acne and those with deeper skin conditions since BHAs penetrate further into the skin. They can bypass the oil that clogs pores and dissolve the mix of sebum and dead skin that leads to acne as well as stabilise the lining of the pore (which contributes to acne). BHAs have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Like AHAs, BHAs have hydrating properties, they help minimise the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, help improve firmness, skin tone and texture. BHAs are particularly relevant for blemish and oil-prone skin.   

Ergothioneine - Protects against oxidative stress and pollution with antioxidant properties to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Topically, it is used to prevent wrinkles, reduce signs of aging skin, and reduce photodamage. Ergothioneine is a derivative of the amino acid histidine synthesized in nature by various bacteria and fungi. It occurs in most types of mushrooms, red beans, black beans, garlic and oat bran are other food sources, but a bio-identical form can be lab-synthesised and has proven to be safe. See Thiotaine.    

Hyaluronic Acid - See Sodium Hyaluronate   

Jojoba Protein - An effective moituriser added to our Azelaic Acid formulation.  

Kojic Acid - Kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyrone) is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting Japanese rice wine (sake) and soy sauce. It is derived from various fungi, particularly Aspergillus oryzae.  Kojic Acid has been shown to Inhibit the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme which controls the amount of pigment produced by the pigment cells (tyrosinase is involved in the production of melanin) and promotes skin lightening as well as helping establish an even skin tone on all skin types. It minimizes liver spots and is a powerful antioxidant, skin brightener and helps to target uneven skin tone.   

Marula Seed Oil - Marula Seed Oil is extracted from the kernels of the marula fruit (Sclerocarya birrea), which is native to Southern Africa. It is an effective antioxidant with Omega 6 and 9 and a high Linoleic content. A superb emollient that absorbs easily into the skin with a non-greasy feeling, leaving it feeling silky and smooth. Contains antioxidants, such as tocopherols (vitamin E), which help protect the skin from free radical damage caused by environmental factors.  

Mulberry Root Extract - Mulberry root extract comes from the white Mulberry tree that is native to China, but cultivated in Europe, Japan, Australia and North America. The extract has been used for centuries in Chinese Medicine.  Lightens age spots and uneven skin tone. Can be combined with other skin lighteners such as licorice extract, kojic acid and alpha-arbutin. Has antioxidant and cleansing properties.  

Neurophroline™ - A high percentage of our Rescue Peptide Serum, Neurophroline™ was discovered in the wild indigo (Tephrosia purpurea), a native Indian plant used in the Ayurvedic tradition for its benefits on skin. This exclusive extract has demonstrated its unique biological capabilities to break down the cortisol production by skin cells, activate the release of a natural calming neuropeptide acting on mood and improve visibly skin tone in only two weeks, proving a fast action to control stress in skin.  

Niacinamide - Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a very stable vitamin which offers a wide range of topical benefits include helping to regulate sebum (oil) activity, improve the appearance of pores, protect skin from inflammatory skin conditions, blemishes and breakouts, and uneven skin tone. Niacinamide may also enhance the efficacy of products designed for blemished skin, dry and sensitive skin or anti-wrinkle treatment. Niacinamide is a component of NAD and NADP, essential coenzymes in ATP production, also having a central role in DNA repair and skin homeostasis. Niacinamide is an excellent all round skincare ingredient and is tolerated by many skin types.  

Peptide - Peptides are compounds made up of short-chain amino acids naturally present in the body. When applied topically to the skin, peptides act as messengers triggering skin functions, such as boosting the production of collagen and improving elasticity.     

PHA - Polyhydroxy Acids also known as PHAs are similar to AHA’s in that they perform the same role of exfoliation, but unlike AHA’s, PHA’s are gentler on skin causing less irritation so common to many alpha hydroxy acids. This results in a more even skin tone and texture, and also help skincare ingredients penetrate deeper into the layers of your skin, boosting their efficacy.  Due to their larger molecular structure, PHAs work exclusively on the surface, without disturbing the deeper delicate layers.   

Prickly Pear – Prickly Pear, also known as Opuntia ficus-indica or cactus fruit is extremely rich in Vitamins E & K.  These essential fatty acids and antioxidants aid the skin in its repair and replenishment.  It delivers moisture and nourishment and restores elasticity to the skin.  Prickly Pear also reduces and prevents free radicals and environmental stressors from the skin.   

Retinol – Retinol is part of the retinoid family.  It is a derivative of Vitamin A and typically used to improve uneven skin tone, support those with skin prone to pigmentation, and improve texture. It helps promote skin renewal, enhances cell turnover and is known for its anti-aging properties.  It is also used for those with skin prone to acne as it is known to be effective in preventing the formation of comedones (clogged pores). While retinol itself is not an acid, it is converted into active forms of vitamin A (retinoic acid) once it is absorbed by the skin. 

Salicylic Acid - Salicylic acid is a gentle b-hydroxy acid (BHA) also known as o-Hydroxybenzoic acid. It is most commonly used in cosmetics as an exfoliant and in skin peels. It exfoliates the skin and deep cleans pores, ridding them of dead cells, dirt debris and excess oil. Salicylic acid is a very effective ingredient for treating oily skin types prone to open pores and blackhead as well as targeting blemishes and uneven skin tone. Salicylic acid acts as a keratolytic agent, meaning it helps to loosen and shed the outer layer of the skin. It can be used on various areas of the body as it can help break down and soften thickened skin.  

Sodium Hyaluronate - A form of hyaluronic acid that can enter the deep layers of your skin where it attracts moisture and reduces inflammation. When applied topically, sodium hyaluronate is excellent for reducing dryness and wrinkles. Hyaluronic Acid helps to bind and draw moisture into the skin for intense hydration. High and low molecular weights of hyaluronic acid target multiple layers of the skin to help with signs of ageing. 

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Stimulates the production of collagen for increased skin firmness whilst helping to reduce the appearance of blemishes and age spots for a more even skin tone. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable derivative of Vitamin C.  

Squalane  - 100% plant-based emollient derived from Spanish Olive Oil. Squalane absorbs into the lipidic layers of your skin and helps to prevent trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and lock in moisture to impart suppleness and flexibility to the skin. Squalane is extremely stable and successfully resists oxidation.  Squalane is non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn't clog pores or contribute to breakouts, making it suitable for acne-prone, as well as other skin types. Olive oil derived Squalane closely resembles the skin’s natural lipids, making it suitable and well-tolerated for all skin types, reducing the risk of irritation.  

Superoxide Dismustase - An active enzyme widely present in organisms and in our Anti-Ageing MultiPeptide Serum. It can remove oxygen free radicals in cells, prevent oxidative damage and inhibit skin damage caused by external pollution, promoting a more youthful and healthier complexion. Superoxide Dismustase, also known as SOD, has the effects of anti-oxidation and anti-aging. Superoxide Dismustase is naturally present in the human body and can also be found in certain food such as green leafy vegetables.  

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a very stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C ester.  It is a form of Vitamin C that has been modified to be soluble in oil or lipids and enters the skin faster and deeper than any other form of Vitamin C. This form of vitamin C corrects and prevents intrinsic and extrinsic ageing. Reduces UV induced pigmentation and melanin synthesis through tyrosinase inhibition. Reduces UV-induced cell damage as well as the impact of pollution and sun exposure. It has been shown to increases collagen synthesis and reduces its degradation.  

Thiotaine - A super antioxidant that protects against oxidative stress and pollution. Thiotaine is a bio-identical lab form of L-ergothioneine, an amino acid found in mushrooms with an impressive antioxidant capacity helping to protect the natural antioxidants in skin from degrading.  It is shown to reduce wrinkles and protect against DNA damage. So effective we have added this ingredient to the majority of our DoSe formulations.